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The Small Barbs
J. Goodwin
(Published in the Scottish Aquarists’ Festival Souvenir Catalogue)

The reasons that I always kept a number of Barbs in my fish tanks are threefold
1: They are easily kept and do not require a great deal of attention compared with other species
2: They are almost always lively and colourful
3: They are fairly easily bred
As the largest tanks I have are 36in x 15in x 15in I am restricted in the size of fish I am able to keep and breed, thus – The Small Barbs.


To keep the Barbs in good condition is quite an easy task, all that is required is to ensure that there is no overcrowding, that they have a varied diet (as well as dry and flaked foods I like to feed live foods at least three times a week, in addition they receive some greens in the form of chopped cooked spinach or sprouts), good filtration to ensure clean, clear, well-aerated water and a weekly change of 15 to 20 percent of the tank water.


Barbus oligolepsisWhen selecting my potential breeding stock I usually purchase six young fish and I am quite prepared to wait until they are nine months old before attempting to spawn them. I find with most of the Barbs they are not much use beyond 2½ years of age.


I use 18in x 10in x 10in tanks for breeding and set up as follows:- tank cleaned with a strong salt solution and then rinsed thoroughly, approx. 6inches of tap water kept at 80ºF (22ºC) and allowed to stand for at least two days, enough gravel to cover the bottom of the tank, coconut fibre (taken from an old mattress years ago) filling about ½ of the tank space leaving the other ½ as free swimming area. The final addition is an air stone blowing gently in one corner. When using the fibre for the first time I boil it until all the dye is removed and when used for subsequent spawnings the fibre is rinsed thoroughly under the tap and boiled again for a few minutes.


I try to have this all arranged in order to introduce the pair or pairs of fish on a Friday evening then I know that either myself or my wife will be at home during weekend in order to remove the adult fish before they have a chance to eat their eggs on completion of the spawning. If I have more than one pair of fish I set up the appropriate number of tanks in exactly the same manner as previously described. I select the best of my males and females paying attention to size, colour, shape condition – leaving out any fish that does not come up to the desired standards – and transfer one pair to each tank with a minimum of fuss. The fish house lights are switched off about one hour later and switched on again the following morning as soon as I awake. I do not use light immediately above the breeding tank, they get enough light from the normal room lights.


From experience I know that most pairs won’t start spawning for at least two hours therefore I can relax, have breakfast and catch up with correspondence, etc. On most occasions the fish have completed spawning by early afternoon (the females are much thinner and both fish are usually resting near the bottom with very little activity going on and I can then remove the adults and replace them in their normal holding tank.

Barbus titteya (female)
The eggs hatch in 24 to 36 hours and the fry are seen hanging on the sides of the tank and among the fibre, they are like tiny slivers of glass and are quite difficult to spot until one knows what to look for. They remain like this for a further four days when they become free-swimming, they fry are no longer hanging on the tank side and can be seen swimming about the tank in mid-water.


For B.oligolepis (checker), B.tittaya (cherry) and B.vittatus my first food is Liquifry No 1 for a period of four or five days (a small squeeze from the tube three times per day) then on to newly hatched brine shrimp for a further eight days, at this stage I introduce a sponge filter and find this is sufficient to keep the tank water clear. For B.tetrazona (tiger), B.nigrofascitus (Niger or Black Ruby), B.conchonius (Rosy), B.schuberti (Golden), B.semifaciolataus (Half Banded), B.ticto and B.arulius my first food is newly hatched brine shrimp. The B.arulius require a larger tank for spawning and I used a 30in x 12in x 12in set up as per 16in x 10in x 10in.


After the eight days on brine shrimp I shift the fry to larger quarters, usually a 16in x 15in x 12in, and start feeding finely mashed tubifex worms for about 10 days when I start feeding fine dry foods in addition to chopped tubifex and sifted daphnia.


The size of the food becoming larger as the fry progresses. I use bare tanks for rearing and apart from heater and thermostat the only other ‘extra’ is two sponge filters, this makes for ease of cleaning when siphoning uneaten food, etc., from the bottom.


As the average spawnings number between 200 and 600 (depending on the type, age, condition etc) it soon becomes necessary to divide the fry between three or four tanks in order to raise good healthy specimens. I try to divide the fry into the various tanks according to size as I find they do not grow at an even rate disposing of any that are deformed or badly marked.


Part of the fishes’ diet includes such things as scraped raw White Fish, Cod Roe, Daphnia, Tubifex, Whiteworm, Chopped cooked beef heart, Chopped spinach or sprouts as well as two or three well-known dry foods.


One or two points not previously mentioned that may prove helpful:-
1: If the fish don’t spawn on the Saturday I sometimes try the addition of cold tap water sprayed over the surface reducing the temperature about 4 or 5 degrees or the addition of some ice cubes to have the same effect. This normally does the trick, if not, leaves them for a further 3 or 4 days, checking each day, and if they don’t spawn by then I start from scratch again.
2: I don’t normally separate my pairs unless I have tried to spawn a particular pair and failed. Then I place males in one tank and females in another for seven or eight days making sure they get more than their normal amount of live foods, particularly Daphnia.
3: If, after repeated attempts, you were unsuccessful my advice would be to change your stock for fresh and try again.


I have used soft water to fairly hard water when spawning the Barbs and find no real difference to the results, therefore it would appear relatively easy for most hobbyists to try to spawn ‘The Small Barbs’ providing their local water supply is not extreme one way or the other.


Image of Cherry Barb courtesy of John Pickering @  Discover Life